[Company Exploration] Thumbs Up for Safety Assessment System... Cosmax, a Leader in the Cosmetics Industry
Conducting Safety Assessments with Leading Global Brands like L'Oréal Extensive Accumulating Experience on Vast Data and Know-How with Various Ingredients and Components
Currently, the hottest topic in the domestic cosmetics industry is undoubtedly 'cosmetic raw material safety assessment.' With countries like China and Europe strengthening regulations to evaluate cosmetic ingredients and the safety of raw materials, South Korea is now facing the need to prove the safety of its products more definitively. In response, Health Kyunghyang has prepared a feature article introducing Cosmax's cosmetic safety assessment system, which is regarded as one of the most advanced among domestic companies. This article explores the direction South Korea should take moving forward while also addressing consumer curiosity about cosmetic safety assessments. We hope this feature will be highly beneficial to the cosmetics industry as well as our readers.
The cosmetic ingredients we use every day contain a variety of raw materials. Even with the same ingredient, different impurities may remain depending on the manufacturing process, so assessing the safety of the raw materials involved in producing these ingredients is crucial. However, in South Korea, only the harmfulness of cosmetic ingredients has been evaluated, and there is little experience in assessing raw material safety.
In contrast, Cosmax established a safety evaluation research team in 2021 and has independently developed a cosmetic safety assessment system. This system allows them to collaborate with leading global brands like L'Oréal, Shiseido, P&G, and Estée Lauder and accumulate unique know-how and vast data on raw material safety assessments.
Enhanced Work Efficiency through an Independent Research System
At first glance, the 'Cosmax R&I Center' looks like a laboratory. It houses vital departments responsible for cosmetic safety assessment. Yeo Hyun-joo, head of the Safety Lab, introduced Cosmax's unique research system. She explained, "Since cosmetic regulations vary by country, we have created a comprehensive system by database (DB)-izing the safety information of various ingredients and raw materials we have reviewed."
For example, when a researcher accessed the research system and entered the product name, the safety information for the product's ingredients and raw materials was displayed. The researcher explained, "What you are looking at is the research system for China, which is currently a hot issue. It allows us to quickly determine if each product's ingredients and raw materials comply with Chinese regulations, significantly reducing work time."
Optimal Toxicity Assessment Data Construction
Based on this unique safety information system, the safety evaluation research team conducts detailed safety assessments of products that researchers have preliminarily verified. They use Cosmax's proprietary toxicity assessment data, compiled from the best-weighted data obtained from various toxicity sites. Yeo Hyun-joo explained, "For raw materials or ingredients with insufficient toxicity data, we secure safety through animal alternative testing methods (mainly artificial skin models) based on OECD guidelines."
Additionally, the analysis research team, which works closely with the safety evaluation research team, verifies the presence and content of suspected harmful substances in raw materials. Once all these processes are complete, they conduct final tests on stability, preservative efficacy, container compatibility, and skin irritation before finalizing the product formulation.
Holding Numerous Clients, Including L'Oréal
To accurately understand the different regulatory requirements in each country, one must experience a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients and raw materials. Currently, Cosmax serves over 3,300 cosmetic brands worldwide, ranging from major global brands to small and medium-sized brands.
Yeo Hyun-joo noted, "By conducting safety assessments with numerous clients, we have experienced a wide range of ingredients and raw materials, and the know-how and data we have accumulated through this process have allowed us to achieve a global advantage in cosmetic safety assessments." However, she pointed out that it can sometimes take work to determine the level of control needed for harmful substances due to the lack of unified raw material safety assessment standards across countries. She emphasized, "If a unified raw material safety assessment standard is established globally, it will make it easier for raw material suppliers and manufacturers to operate, and most importantly, it will allow us to offer a wider variety of safe products to consumers."
TIP: Advice for Domestic Companies Preparing for Cosmetic Safety Assessments
Even if it involves some trial and error, make an effort to explore as many different raw materials as possible and secure relevant information.
Consider how to divide the responsibilities for safety assessments and what systems are needed. (Setting a solid foundation for initial tasks can make it easier to apply the same standards when repeating similar tasks.)
To accumulate the necessary knowledge and skills, engage in educational programs, such as those for cosmetic safety assessors.
